"Compared to London ramen, Chinese noodle soups are a bargain and none more so than Lanzhou Lamian which everyone has known about for about ten years but still feels like a secret. Get the real menu in the back and order la mian in various forms of thickness, or even better the dao xiao mian which is shaved from what looks like a marble block straight into the gurgling cooking water until it’s perfectly al dente. Chilli oil status: Weirdly dry, but still absolutely essential." - Jonathan Nunn
