"Despite being billed as a simple neighborhood bistro, Brooklyn’s Sailor has been a destination since the day it opened: It represents the return of chef April Bloomfield to New York and the British-inflected cooking that made her name. Here, partnering with Gabriel Stulman, she shows off a sharpened point of view and an unfussy elegance, coaxing complex flavors from humble ingredients. There’s the glorious half-chicken, roasted with herb butter and served with Parmesan-crusted potatoes; the crispy sweetbreads with a lemony gribiche; and an intensely spicy ginger cake. Overtly and covertly, Bloomfield pays homage to the chefs who have inspired her by serving riffs on their recipes, such as Zuni Cafe’s anchovy with celery, and the unadorned vegetable sides a la Rita Sodi. In other words, Bloomfield is at the top of her game at Sailor, which is notable considering that she spent several years in relative exile due to sexual harassment scandals at the Spotted Pig, where she was chef and co-owner; Bloomfield was criticized for not acting to stop the abuse by co-owner Ken Friedman. After making some personal changes, propelled by intensive therapy and getting sober, she’s entered a new round of her career, and diners are clamoring for a front-row seat. Sailor is yet another example of well-regarded co-owner Stulman’s thoughtful yet accessible approach, and the dining room maintains an easy ambiance to match. The cozy space evokes a nautical theme, with floor-to-ceiling windows dressed with striped awnings and walls the color of a night sea. As for Bloomfield specifically, Sailor is her reminder to us of how resonant British cooking can be, especially as she joins a group of expat peers (including the chef of last year’s Best New Restaurant, Lord’s) who are steering a stateside revival. It’s a redemption story that’s so very human, on display in an industry that is often less than kind. — Melissa McCart, Eater NY editor" - Eater Staff
