Sailor, chef April Bloomfield's stylish nautical bistro in Fort Greene, serves up elevated seafood dishes that feel both special and approachable.
"Despite being billed as a simple neighborhood bistro, Brooklyn’s Sailor has been a destination since the day it opened: It represents the return of chef April Bloomfield to New York and the British-inflected cooking that made her name. Here, partnering with Gabriel Stulman, she shows off a sharpened point of view and an unfussy elegance, coaxing complex flavors from humble ingredients. There’s the glorious half-chicken, roasted with herb butter and served with Parmesan-crusted potatoes; the crispy sweetbreads with a lemony gribiche; and an intensely spicy ginger cake. Overtly and covertly, Bloomfield pays homage to the chefs who have inspired her by serving riffs on their recipes, such as Zuni Cafe’s anchovy with celery, and the unadorned vegetable sides a la Rita Sodi. In other words, Bloomfield is at the top of her game at Sailor, which is notable considering that she spent several years in relative exile due to sexual harassment scandals at the Spotted Pig, where she was chef and co-owner; Bloomfield was criticized for not acting to stop the abuse by co-owner Ken Friedman. After making some personal changes, propelled by intensive therapy and getting sober, she’s entered a new round of her career, and diners are clamoring for a front-row seat. Sailor is yet another example of well-regarded co-owner Stulman’s thoughtful yet accessible approach, and the dining room maintains an easy ambiance to match. The cozy space evokes a nautical theme, with floor-to-ceiling windows dressed with striped awnings and walls the color of a night sea. As for Bloomfield specifically, Sailor is her reminder to us of how resonant British cooking can be, especially as she joins a group of expat peers (including the chef of last year’s Best New Restaurant, Lord’s) who are steering a stateside revival. It’s a redemption story that’s so very human, on display in an industry that is often less than kind. — Melissa McCart, Eater NY editor" - Eater Staff
"The Waiting Room: Saraghina Caffe The Back-Up Plan: Karasu If you want to eat the most perfect roast chicken in Brooklyn, expect a wait, because Sailor in Fort Greene has been booked out since it opened in September 2023. For a waiting-spritz, snag a spot outside at Saraghina Caffe. Not only is it some of the best sidewalk seating around, but you can order a pizza, and it's also exactly one block away, so you can keep tabs on everyone coming and going out of Sailor. Not that you would. But you could. If it’s not sitting-outside weather, head to Karasu, a Japanese speakeasy in the back of a restaurant, where you can get a cocktail named Call Me Beep Me If You Want To Lychee. " - willa moore
"This Fort Greene restaurant is destination dining disguised as a humble neighborhood restaurant, and weekend brunch is no exception. At Sailor, menu items that sound simple, like a tomato grilled cheese or gruyère omelet, tend to have surprising twists that turn them into new classics. There are only 10 tables, so it’s a tough reservation, but you might be able to snag one of the walk-in bar seats if you come in early. The dishware is plain, the plating isn’t fussy, and the nautical themes make this place feel super casual, but don’t let that fool you—every meal here feels like a special occasion. " - neha talreja, will hartman, bryan kim, kenny yang
"Verdict: This Fort Greene bistro—one of our favorite new spots of 2023—serves a fantastic seafood-heavy menu in an intimate, nautical-themed dining room that features what appears to be a taxidermied lobster. When you want to sit beside a flickering lamp and gaze out a window while you eat some profiteroles, this is where you should be." - bryan kim
"Sailor is chef April Bloomfield’s comeback after a fallout at the Spotted Pig. The new restaurant, a partnership with restaurateur Gabriel Stulman, behind Manhattan hot spots Jeffrey’s Grocery and Fairfax, has Bloomfield “at the top of her game,” according to Eater’s critic. Reservations are suggested, although some seats are set aside for walk-ins." - Luke Fortney, Eater Staff