"Escárcega dove into Sawtelle’s Ramen Row, where Mogu Mogu opened in April this year. The “spartan but cheerful dining room” is where owner Tomohiro Wada’s team produces a brothless ramen called mazemen, also known as “mixed noodles.” Staff carefully guide diners: The kitchen plays with toppings, “especially those that might be diluted or lost in a hot soup.”" - Mona Holmes
