"Kaiseki meets sushi via Shoji at 69 Leonard, the Japanese pop-up turned permanent concept that replaced Ichimura in 2018. Chef Derek Wilcox — who recently earned three stars from the Times — spent seven years at three-Michelin-starred Kikunoi in Kyoto, and he brings to New York one of the most faithful Japanese dining experiences the city offers. Within an unadorned, blonde wood, 10-seat counter space, Wilcox plates three weekly-changing omakase menus ($190, $252, $295, all gratuity included) rife with rare and hyper seasonal Japanese ingredients. Hamo (pike conder eel) sashimi, kan buri (winter amerjack) marinated in sake lees, and namako (sea cucumber) tenerized in green tea all make appearances. The menu commences with a series of otsumami (appetizers) and kaiseki-inspired small plates before moving into around 10 drops of nigiri, followed by temaki, soup, and dessert." - Kat Odell