
"Tucked into Hotel Kabuki in Japantown, I found Nari serving fresh, fiery Thai in a much larger, cleanly designed space edged with jungle leaves; it’s a spinoff from the Michelin-starred Kin Khao and chef-owner Pim Techamuanvivit isn’t holding back on funky, spicy flavors. Unlike its older sister, Nari has room for a more extensive, playful menu: the miang — a sweet snack of stone fruit, trout roe, and coconut piled on heart-shaped betel leaves — is likely to be an Instagram star, and starters include squid and pork jowl tossed with chiles and crushed peanuts. Larger platters are meant to be shared, including the gaeng rawaeng, a whole game hen sunk into a golden curry served with buttery roti, and a gaeng bumbai aubergine, a hot eggplant curry topped with crispy shallots and lemon basil; servers warn some items are so spicy diners might cry “tears of joy.” It’s not shy on contrasts, finishing with cooling desserts like a pandan parfait with pebbled ice cream and cocktails from bar director Megan Daniel-Hoang (Whitechapel) such as the Kaki (cognac, banana liqueur, amber vermouth, amaro, saffron), all named after female characters from Thai literature. Nari is open daily from 5:30 to 10 p.m., reservations are available on Resy, and lunch service will begin soon." - Becky Duffett