"The city’s premier Teochew restaurant has occupied a prominent storefront on Bayard since 1990, serving Chinese food with Southeast Asian flair. There’s a version of pho using pork instead of beef, notable deep-fried shrimp rolls, and a fish noodle soup in which the noodles are actually made of fish. But flagship of the fleet is “country style duck,” in which the quacker is braised rather than roasted, and quite a contrast to the other ducks of Chinatown." - Robert Sietsema