"The counter bar that wraps around chef Micha Schäfer’s kitchen is a stunner, and an effective stage for his tasting menu. The chef forgoes unsustainable imports to focus on ingredients from the Berlin-Brandenburg region. The menus take a New Nordic approach to German items from asparagus to kohlrabi — only in season, of course. Though meat is fading out of focus at Nobelhart & Schmutzig, meals usually feature a bite or two, such as absurdly tender lamb. It’s all deftly paired with contemporary wines by owner and host Billy Wagner, who is widely regarded as one of the best sommeliers in the city." - Tim Forster