More Than a Decade Old, Roman’s Is Better Than Ever | Eater NY

"I stopped by Roman’s at the edge of Fort Greene and Clinton Hill (243 DeKalb Ave, near Vanderbilt) early one evening and found the same closely clustered two-tops, a central bar, and a white-tiled interior that signals hospitality rather than a hospital. Named for owner Andrew Tarlow’s son, the kitchen used to be run by Dave Gould, whose highlights included fish, vegetables, and a spaghetti in brodo snowed with cheese; under current chef Hannah Shizgal-Paris the menu changes more gradually, retaining a few dishes while swapping supporting ingredients. The menu follows a traditional three-course Italian progression but portions are large enough that two can easily share; three dishes plus dessert and a drink apiece ran about $150. We began with roasted cabbage with anchovy, caper leaves, and breadcrumbs ($22) — the cabbage was charred, the caper leaves astringent, the breadcrumbs crunchy, and the anchovies like a shout — and later saw a variation with citrus, caper leaves, mint, and goat ricotta. The mezze rigatoni with chickpeas, pork sausage, and broccolini ($28) was a relief in its limited choice: the garbanzos added a creamy texture that made the rough chunks of pork sausage seem more special. For the main course I chose the chicken fra diavolo (one of three mid-$40s options): a half bird with plump, moist flesh, crisp spice-rubbed skin that didn’t interfere with the fresh poultry taste, and a scatter of caramelized Brussels sprouts that easily fed both of us. Dessert was a vanilla-flecked panna cotta in a pool of fruit preserves ($12) that was perfect in conception but a touch too salty. The modest wine list offers seven by-the-glass selections (mostly Italian and a little unusual), and the house soda ($7) with earl grey, cinnamon, and lemon was delightfully bubbly — every bit as festive as Champagne." - Robert Sietsema