"Two words: lasagna fritta. Wavy layers of baked pasta and rich sauce are deep-fried into crispy nuggets — it’s no surprise the dish has become a regular fixture on Bright’s always intriguing and peripatetic menu. But the east London neighbourhood restaurant’s best pasta dishes are more nuanced and less Instagrammed: cime di rapa and anchovies whizzed into a green sauce with orecchiette. There’s also decadently beige tagliatelle with crumbly chicken offal ragu, and clever not-too-sweet desserts from the new-school, alongside a superb and extensive wine list. One of the city’s most interesting modern dining rooms." - Adam Coghlan
