"New Yorker editor Shauna Lyon visits chef Eyal Shani’s Tel Aviv import HaSalon in Hell’s Kitchen and finds quite the party. Around 10 p.m. on a Friday, she writes: “The d.j. played a catchy Israeli pop song, and servers flooded the aisles, clapping and hooting. People of all ages, dressed in their night-club best, jumped up, some onto chairs and tables, to dance.” The food displays the chef’s “devotion to technique” — a “tender” chunk of fire-roasted beef comes with a “delightfully sticky” crust — though at a steep cost. That meat dish costs $79, and another dish composed of chunks of tomatoes in olive oil is $24." - Carla Vianna