"The ivory walls of chef Alfonso “Poncho” Cadena’s thematic modern Mexican restaurant are decorated with bones and anatomical patterns. The design, by his brother, Ignacio “Nacho” Cadena, acknowledges the foundations of flavor: bones, nerves, and connective tissue. The decor echoes the food: modern, rustic plates of braised duck, sous vide cabreria (tenderloin on the bone), and grilled octopus in a spicy adobo of burnt chiles, loosely stacked over grilled vegetables, and plated with swirls and dots of vegetable puree. The menu changes with the availability of seasonal items, as does the cocktail menu based on Jaliscan fruits sold in local markets. [$$$]" - Bill Esparza