"One of the city’s first izakayas, founded over 20 years ago, has long served a menu of sushi and Japanese comfort classics, along with a growing list of very good ramen in tall narrow bowls. The noodles themselves are more substantial than most and of average circumference, and many of the combinations are remarkable — including one bowl that resembles wonton soup, tastily bridging the gap between Japanese ramen and its Chinese antecedents." - Robert Sietsema