"Last week Soleil Ho delivered a full-on rave of Verjus, the new wine bar from Lindsay and Michael Tusk. This week, Pete Kane delivered his own enthusiastic praise for the restaurant, which he said is “intellectual without becoming pompous or mannered. It’s not just fun to eat here; it’s exciting.” Kane’s main criticisms were the slightly confusing layout (“First, I never know which door I’m supposed to walk into and at what time of day, or if I’m supposed to wait there at the threshold or immediately approach one of the two counters,”) and disappointingly flimsy napkins (“Cloth, please! Or, barring that, functional paper you don’t have to wad up.”). Ultimately though, the critic was wowed from top to bottom. “From the menu to the no-reservations policy to the service, Verjus is top-down bohemia. You will have to experiment at least a little, and no you cannot have a whole roast chicken. Spoilsports might quibble about the slight lack of choices, and there is a paucity of sensuous reds by the glass, but if you give in and let Verjus be the boss, you’ll find the lack of safety novel and refreshing. This is the vibe, no doubt about it.”" - Ellen Fort
