Most prominent are four “slippery egg” dishes ($14) that feature a mountain of rice blanketed by an omelet laced with milk and cheese, which glows alarmingly yellow. The one I tried had a breaded chicken cutlet on top with a Malaysian-style coconut curry gravy on the side. Noodle soups are another strong point. Using soft rice noodles, these deploy a mellow chicken broth and fill it with multiple ingredients, focusing on beef or seafood. The most expensive is abalone and seafood rice noodle soup ($20) featuring what seems like an unusual selection for a fast food joint: squid, shrimp, mussels, and fish balls, in addition to actual abalone, once a luxury product but now being farmed along the Fujianese coastline. This soup is briny and fortifying, but I left wishing I’d ordered the spicy beef noodle soup instead.
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