Laico's

"This old-timer opened near the Hackensack River waterfront in Jersey City in 1972, and the menu reflects Italian American food at that juncture of its development. Nothing could be more perfect than the eggplant rollatini ($11), stuffing southern Italy’s favorite vegetable with the cow’s milk cheese so abundant in the New World, called for lack of a better term, mozzarella. The pungent tomato sauce knocks the dish into orbit."