"Why book? The Santo Mauro is that precious thing—a hotel whose classic status lies beyond the tawdry grasp of modern life. A recent refurb has only enhanced its perennial charm. Palatially posh it may be—but as in all the best such places, the sumptuousness is nicely leavened with discretion and friendliness. Set the sceneThe palacio was designed by architect Juan Bautista Lázaro in the French style fashionable in late 19th-century Spain, with a nod to madrileño tradition in the fish-scale gray slate roofs. A trio of buildings, including two grand houses and a former stables, sits among 10,000 square feet of pleasure-garden with pavilions and terrazas for high-summer lounging. Hung with engravings and stuffed with antique furniture, the interior is pitched somewhere between English country house and aristocratic Parisian mansion. The backstoryOpen as a hotel since 1991, the Santo Mauro was absorbed into the Marriott empire in 2011 and recently joined that company’s Luxury Collection marque. (Interestingly, however, the M-word barely figures here.) Though it’s long been a favorite of dignitaries and potentates—not to mention Real Madrid footballers—the redesign has removed some of the old exclusiveness and hauteur, rendering it not only cozier but also (and this might sound surprising) more fun. Food and drinkResidents of Madrid’s swish Barrio de Salamanca have begun dropping in for lunch at Rafa Peña’s in-house restaurant, an outpost of his Gresca in Barcelona. (Think Palamós prawn croquetas, caviar profiteroles, hare a la royale.) In the Gin Bar, whose blue leather armchairs might be channeling some London gentlemen’s club, mixologist Filippo serves signature Santo Mauro cocktails (try a Tea Time) with a ‘salute’ and a dish of fried almonds. The impressive breakfast, served with great ceremony at linen-clad tables, is worth forgoing diets and routines for. The neighborhoodPoised between fashionable Almagro and classy Salamanca districts, the hotel’s neighbors are embassies, private health clinics, and high-ceilinged apartment blocks with wrought-iron balconies. Strolling the tree-lined streets of Monte Esquinza or Zurbano, you could easily imagine yourself in some upscale quartier of Paris or Brussels. For familiesFrankly it’s hard to imagine what small children might find to enjoy in this hotel. And with all those fine carpets and furnishings, those Grecian urns poised on plinths, you can’t help thinking the feeling might be mutual. Anything left to mention? If five-star frippery doesn’t float your boat, the Santo Mauro may be de trop. This is the kind of place where you find little cards, tucked away in the corners of your room, intimating that the fluffy white bathrobe provides “Exceptional Comfort” or that an “Ice Service” offering fresh ice cubes and a bucket is a phone call away. Sitting at a huge leather-lined desk embossed with gold, you might be one of Louis XVI's ministers." - Paul Richardson
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