"Allard is among the last-of-its-kind classic gourmet (if ever there were an apt if antiquated word) bistros you come back to again and again. "Here, beauty is both in the room and on the plate," says Mimi Thorisson. "The duck with green olives is utterly satisfying." Frogs' legs, poached turbot, and duck foie gras are prepared as they should be and without unnecessary or unwanted flourish." - Lindsey Tramuta, Sara Lieberman