"You can’t miss Cheval d’Or’s cherry-hued storefront, a holdover from its previous incarnation as a classic Chinese restaurant in the 19th arrondissement. The rest is très of the moment: bright and somewhat industrial, instantly striking for its soaring ceiling, light wood counter facing a long open kitchen, vintage fridge repurposed to store wine, weathered parquet floors, and exposed air ducts. Decorative details rely on Chinese ceramics and chopsticks, set on silver horse-shaped knife rests, which are a perfect match for chef Hanz Gueco’s mashup of French-Chinese cooking. Dishes change regularly but might include a twist on the croque-madame with prawns, fried egg, chile oil, and mayo, or mapo ragu made with fresh pasta, pork char siu glazed in beetroot and cherries, and a red bean tarte for dessert, inspired by the legendary Sydney restaurant Rockpool. The beauty of the space and cuisine is that it feels just as right for a nice weeknight dinner out as for a milestone occasion. A few larger round tables make it ideal for booking with friends or family—so long as they're game to share." - Lindsey Tramuta, Sara Lieberman