"Set in a converted school on historic circular street Arnold Circus, savvy diners need to find the unmarked door and the discreet buzzer to be let into this cult classic. Once inside, walk through the garden and look out for jars of local honey on a shelf by the wall. The restaurant itself, in the school’s former bike shed, is quite compact with a minimal white interior—just some straw hats perch on the wall—but they’ve expanded the seating into the garden outside with summery-feeling covered tables that are perfect for every weather eventuality. Since opening in 2004, Melanie Arnold and Margot Henderson’s daily-changing menu has been a celebration of seasonal ingredients. Fish and meat here are treated with the utmost respect and served with pleasing accompaniments such as grilled mackerel with peas, and horseradish and onglet with beetroot and anchovy. Don’t skip over the sides: glorious new potatoes arrive swimming in melted butter." - Elizabeth Winding, Sonya Barber
