"L'Express, a joyful Plateau Mont-Royal icon, is like a piece of Paris relocated to Montreal, right down to the servers’ accents. This is bistro food at its finest. Typical French appetizers—Du Puy lentil and squid salad, marrow bones served with crispy toasts and sea salt—precede a set menu that includes steak frites, veal sweetbreads, and poached salmon. Though there are often seasonal specials, regulars have come to rely on the same menu items, flawlessly prepared for four decades." - Todd Plummer, Isa Tousignant