"Los Cocuyos is all about meat—submerged in lard, slow cooked until it falls off the bone and is ready to be folded into tiny tacos. The brisket is some of the best in town; the campechano, a chopped-up mix of beef, longaniza, and a little bit of everything else, is a must-order; and the tripe will convince anyone who was previously on the fence about offal. Each taco is served with two excellent tortillas, brushed with cooking fat and sprinkled with onion and cilantro." - Naomi Tomky, Scarlett Lindeman