"The glass of dorona wine I’m raising to the sky glows a rich, almost iridescent gold—more the hue of fresh cider than anything you’d expect to see come from grapes. The rows of vines before me are equally surreal, their gnarled roots rising from a sheen of brackish water. I’m at Venissa, which might just be the world’s most improbable winery thanks to its location on the tiny island of Mazzorbo, in the far reaches of the Venice lagoon."
