"The name of Montreal chef Simon Mathys’s new restaurant translates as “a big and husky person.” This makes sense when you see the affordable three-course, weekly-changing takeout menu of Mastard, which might feature braised lamb shoulder with parsley root, spinach and mint butter; pork cheek with capers, cauliflower and brown butter; and Quebec surf clam with local potatoes, herb-smoked yogurt and just enough coppa (though, truly, is there ever enough coppa?)."