"GO HERE: because OG Noma chef Christian F. Puglisi was one of the first to strike out on his own—and he’s been the most successful by far. (He’s behind favorites Manfreds, Bæst, and Mirabelle.) His tasting-menu restaurant has set the bar for countless ambitious young chefs around the world—and not just with its leather aprons and silverware drawers but due to Puglisi’s approach to in-the-moment seasonal local cuisine that’s both careful and extreme. ORDER THE: tasting menu with wine pairings, all the way. (The three-course one, if you’re pressed for time. But really?) Here, Puglisi conjures dishes that push the limits of flavor, like dried yellow beet sashimi with elderflower. If you’re the kind of person who doesn’t like to fill up on the bread, develop temporary amnesia: Puglisi’s sourdough is among the world’s best. THE VIBE IS: reverent but cool. Maybe it’s because of all that natural wine being poured. You’ll find visiting chefs, local creatives, and dignified gastronauts from around the world in the lo-fi brick-and-wood room and perched at the kitchen counter. PRACTICAL STUFF: Open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday, from 5 p.m. to midnight, and lunch Friday and Saturday, from noon to 3 p.m. Closed Sunday and Monday. Be sure to book ahead. —Christine Muhlke" - Condé Nast
