I Haven’t Had a Just-Okay Dish at This Little Italian Spot in New Jersey | Bon Appétit

"An intimate BYOB Italian in Jersey City’s Heights with a backyard, led by Chef Matt Moschella, that offers approachable yet creative fare and consistently satisfying meals. The daily-changing meat-and-cheese plate is a standout—bresaola, mortadella and finocchiona from Salumeria Biellese paired with New Jersey-made crema de bleu and pepato from Valley Shepherd Creamery, fermented broccoli rabe from Italy, cherries from the restaurant’s garden, and crisp carta di musica. Fresh pastas (spaghetti, ravioli, etc.) are reliably excellent; there’s usually a whole fish on the menu (bass or skin-on tilefish), and other highlights include an “angry” chicken with Calabrian chiles, perfectly cooked octopus over borlotti beans, and ricotta toast with honey and lots of crushed pink peppercorns. The cooking is simple and thoughtful without sacrificing creativity or quality—the young team clearly knows what they’re doing." - ByBrad Leone