La Copine Is a Queer Oasis in the California Desert | Bon Appétit

"A 42-seat, gussied-up roadside-diner turned queer, matriarchal oasis on Old Woman Springs Road, known as much for its warm, largely female and gender-nonconforming staff and inclusive vibe as for its food. Signature dishes include a citrus-and-beets salad topped with sunflower seeds and a poblano-lime vinaigrette, architecturally craggy fried chicken, flattop-blistered green beans showered with mint and dill, and a brownie that masquerades as a chocolate almond cake. Popular enough that weekend waits can reach two hours (service runs Wednesday–Sunday, roughly midafternoon through early evening, and the wait list often closes early), the restaurant emphasizes community rituals like nightly family meal and resilience in the face of occasional anti-gay mail and broader local conservatism." - ByMacKenzie Chung Fegan