"It’s easy to miss, an unassuming entry on the restaurant’s sprawling menu of seafood dishes. And it smacks of sacrilege—caviar, that most refined and luxury-signaling ingredient; the sandwich, that most pedestrian of formats. That was what piqued my curiosity the first time I ordered it. Caviar for the people! But it is perfect in its simplicity: two slices of toasted white bread layered with chopped hard boiled egg and a fat schmear of black bowfin caviar—an affordable-yet-still-delicious roe harvested from a relative of the famed sturgeon—served alongside a plastic sidecar of crème fraîche for dipping and a sprig of curly parsley. It’s crunchy, and salty, and just the right amount of fishy, a tidy little package of deliciousness. And at $14, it exists in a cheeky sort of limbo: Is it a kind-of-expensive sandwich or a kind-of-cheap caviar dish?" - ByAmiel Stanek