If These Tortillas Were Any More Lard-y, They Would Oink and Run Away | Bon Appétit
"For three generations the Estudillo family has been turning out a short menu of California-border classics—rolled tacos buried under shredded iceberg and cotija, crispy tacos stuffed with juicy shredded pork, steamy custardy tamales, bowls of beans and rice, and huevos con chorizo—often with a line down the block. The real revelation is the house-made flour tortilla: richly larded and almost damp when cooked, freckled with griddle char and near-translucent spots, with a toasty, nutty, intensely meaty (almost pork-rind-like) flavor that elevates simple pork-and-cheese burritos and serves as the perfect vehicle for the other dishes. The kitchen feels old-school and communal, with a brigade of women rolling fresh stacks in the back, and the eating experience is unapologetically greasy, comforting, and transformative—likely to change how you think about flour tortillas. Wholeheartedly recommended for anyone ready to have their life changed by a truly exceptional tortilla, and a gentle warning to fans of bland grocery-store wrappers: this will ruin your ignorance (and possibly add to the wait)." - ByAmiel Stanek
