Jonathan Gold Was the Food Writer Who Made Us Love Food Writing | Bon Appétit

"Newly redesigned, this iconic fine-dining restaurant envelops guests in a luxurious, theatrical ‘bubble’ from the moment they hand their keys to the valet until they leave. The kitchen pairs meticulous technique with showmanship: a thick prime rib that carries deep flavors of blood, age and char, and a tagliatelle finished with white truffles presented under a glass dome that perfume the dining room. Sommeliers enthusiastically elevate wine selections even late into the evening, while the room itself plays like a gallery—large, arresting artworks (including a photograph of a shattered cellphone and paintings that recall contemporary Los Angeles) and an '80s-rock soundtrack contribute to a lively, indulgent dinner-theater atmosphere that balances culinary detail with spectacle." - ByAdam Rapoport