"GO HERE: for restaurateur Andrew Tarlow’s unfussy, come-as-you-are restaurant that’s still banging out expertly cooked, soul-nourishing food. ORDER: whatever jumps out from the constantly changing menu. (Your waitress will scrawl the day’s short but sweet offerings on the white-papered table or recite to you at the bar. We're still charmed.) Dishes riff on classics, like a Scandi twist on carpaccio with dill and caraway or a very Midwestern-tasting crisp-skinned trout with aioli underneath. However, the stellar burger—a hefty grass-fed beef patty with lightly pickled onions and white cheddar, and served next to a mountain of starchy fries—is always there for you. THE VIBE IS: rather intimate and cocoon-like, thanks to the low ceilings, very tiny tables with black park bench seats, and the occasional visit from your waitress, who will sit down right next to you when taking your order. But with Queen humming on the speakers and little kids wandering to and from the bathroom with their parents, it feels like a very low-fuss party, even on a sleepy Sunday night. PRACTICAL STUFF: Open every day: Monday to Thursday, from 6 p.m. to midnight; Friday, from 11 am. to midnight; and Saturday to Sunday, from 10 a.m. to midnight. It’s easy enough to walk in and eat at the bar, but reserve via Resy for better luck with booking a table. —Elyse Inamine" - Condé Nast
