"This little truck in Los Angeles makes the carne asada tacos of my dreams. Julia Silva, El Ruso’s tortilla maestra, drives down to Mexicali for this specific flour, which she thinks is softer than the American variety, and flattens each tortilla by hand, the same way she’s always done for 40 years. Walter Soto’s tacos hit all the right notes. He serves them costra style, with Monterrey cheese underneath Silva’s already perfect tortillas, and then griddles it, so the cheese fuses to the tortilla and becomes simultaneously scorched, crunchy, and melty. The carne asada is simply seasoned and expertly grilled. On top, Soto spoons a ladleful of red beans, plump and velvety after simmering for hours with a little bit of chile and sea salt." - ByElyse Inamine
