Una Pizza Napoletana Calls NYC Home... Again | Bon Appétit

"Renowned for cultivating a devoted following, this pizzeria is celebrated for textbook-perfect Neapolitan pies: thin, slightly soggy-bottomed crusts with crackled, black bubbles and distinctive bumps. The chef-owner has repeatedly closed and relocated the shop—moving coast to coast from a sleepy beach town to major dining cities—building and rebuilding each space himself (often with his father), which has become part of the restaurant’s lore. Early press turned a slow start into long lines and cult status in New York; subsequent moves to San Francisco and back involved learning to manage staff, a much-publicized opening blessed by a priest, and an obsessive focus on dough and tomato sauce. For the latest, fourth iteration he’s partnered with Jeremiah Stone and Fabian von Hauske and brought in a designer to blend past metalwork and aesthetic elements, but he remains nervously exacting about getting the pizza and dough right while reconnecting with longtime regulars who make the place feel like home." - ByAnthony Mangieri