Singapore's Hawker Centers Were on the Brink of Disappearing. Then the Government and the U.N. Stepped In. | Bon Appétit
"A bustling hawker centre in Singapore where skilled hawkers smash, fold, and flip stretchy dough into golden-brown, flaky roti prata served with hot curry for dipping; vendors also 'pull' frothy teh tarik by pouring milky black tea between vessels. The centre functions as a vibrant communal space with long lines for prawn noodles, mutton biryani, and curry puffs, reflecting Singapore’s multicultural hawker heritage that evolved from 19th-century immigrant street hawkers. As one of the country’s best-known food markets, it has become central to efforts to preserve hawker culture—through government mentorships, grants, succession planning, and equipment subsidies—and was part of the successful push to inscribe hawker culture on UNESCO’s Representative List. Despite its cultural significance and local pride, vendors face challenges from ageing stall owners, low profit margins, and changing labour choices; community-led initiatives and social-media-driven group buys have helped sustain stalls during crises such as COVID-19." - BySonia Chopra
