"Sitting down for dinner in one of thirty seats 'Treintasillas' means 'thirty seats' - and thanks to its popularity with local foodies, you'll have to plan ahead if you intend to sit in one of them. At this casually stylish closed-door restaurant - cash-only and open exclusively on Friday and Saturday evenings - Chef Ezequiel Gallardo's multi-course menu changes weekly. One spring evening in September, for example, diners start with a creamy leek, shrimp and Spanish chorizo soup, followed by a salad of potatoes, tomatoes, black olives and poached eggs with basil. Then it's onto a main course of roasted pork tenderloin and honey-glazed eggplants, followed by cardamom and coffee crème brûlée. Buen provecho!"