"Top Table on the Arno This Ferragamo-owned restaurant is located on the river with in-your-face views of the Ponte Vecchio for the lucky few who manage to book one of the tables on the terrace. Chef Peter Brunel has been making waves with his creative menus: Borgo San Jacopohas been awarded a Michelin star for the past several years in a row.Yes, it's expensive, but it's a meal you won't soon forget."

"A Delicious Hole in the Wall Located afew steps away from the Ponte Vecchio in what was at one time a medieval palace, this restaurant serves a traditional menu of dishes made with regional ingredients. Their beef is sourced from a farm in the Maremma countryside and the wine list highlights Tuscan producers. Even the restaurant’s name is a nod to the local culture— orafo means "goldsmith," and this neighborhood was wheregold workshops were once located. Start with Tuscan white beans drizzled with olive oil, with a serving of fennel salami, then move on to the pasta course. (The taglierini ai piselli freschi , pasta with fresh peas, is particularly good in season.) For dessert, try the pear slow-cooked in wine or cantucci cookies dipped into vin santo, a strong sweet wine."

"One of Florence ’s grand cafés since its founding in 1733, Caffè Gilli is easilyrecognized by the Swiss clock hanging outside above its entranceand by the glass display caseof multicolored confections inside.Enjoy your morning cappuccino or evening prosecco while standing at the marble-topped bar, or experience the café's formal service by sitting at apolished wooden table under elegantchandeliers in the tearoom. For more-casual warm-weather meals, there is a large shaded patio with comfortable seating and a fantastic view of the carousel in Piazza della Repubblica."

"Palace Dining Via Tornabuoni, one of the most elegant streets in Florence , is lined with many imposing Renaissance palazzi, includinga 15th-century beauty owned by the Antinori family, the famed wine producers. The ground floor of Palazzo Antinori is given over to a refined restaurant with a formal dining room—think starched linen tablecloths and waiters in white jackets—suitable for the aristocratic atmosphere. The kitchen relies on ingredients from the family's estate, so the menu is limited, seasonal, and fresh. Not surprisingly, the wine list is deep, with a selection of super Tuscan blends and wines from the Antinori cellars."

"Take-Away Treats Adjacent to the restaurant is a cheery boutique filled with gourmet products from all over Tuscany. Thanks to the restaurant’s long-standing relationships with many of the region’s top purveyors, you’ll find high-quality olive oil (tastings can also be arranged), cheeses, cured meat, preserves, breads, and more. Not all of it will make it through customs, but you can savor any perishables on a picnic to the Tuscan countryside."

"Third-wave coffee—the movement to change the public's senseof coffee from common hot beverage to valued and nuanced culinary commodity like wine—has arrived in Florence in the form of Ditta Artigianale. Three locations of the trendy spot have been launched so far, the latest inside the historic Cinema la Compagnia. Grab a table and order a single-estate Chemex pour-over and a flaky pastry or, if you are craving a more substantial breakfast, opt for a croque monsieur or pancakes. Open from early morning until after dinner, the Ditta Artigianale cafés, with midcentury decor, great coffee, all-day dining, cocktails, and free Wi-Fi, have quickly become a beloved brand."

"Historic Wine Shop This small, family-run wine shop in the Oltrarno district has been a gathering place for Florentines since 1947. Now run by the founder'sgrandsonand his family, it remains a place where neighborhood denizens come to buy wine to take homeor to have a chat overa glass. Inside the shop, floor-to-ceiling shelves display bottles from a variety of Italian regions and vintages, with options in every price range. Glasses of red or white wine, dispensed from taps, can be enjoyed atthe narrow bar. Or linger a little longer: Ask for a seat at one of the sidewalk tables, then order a glass of Chianti and a snack of chicken liver pâté (made from Nonna’s recipe) served on grilled Tuscan bread."

"Irene Irene, a bright and colorful restaurant at the Hotel Savoy, is great for lunch on the sunny bistro terrace outside or for a nightcap sipped on a velvet banquette at the bar inside. The kitchen turns out traditional Tuscan cuisine with surprising modern touches: The classic tomato-and-bread pappa al pomodoro comes stuffed inside ravioli, and the vitello tonnato (veal with tuna-caper sauce) is topped with ribbons of shaved fennel and served withthe sauce on the side. On Sundays, the popular "Lunch at Nonna's" menu is a loving nod to the restaurant's namesake. Pre- or post-dinner, grab a seat on the terrace, overlooking Piazza della Repubblica, to enjoy wines served in retro-style carafes and bubbly poured into 1950s coupe glasses."

"An Offal Experience A local favorite on postcard-pretty Piazza della Passera in the Oltrarno neighborhood, Il Magazzino serves up delicious Florentine food with a special emphasis on offal. If you are up for it, there’s no better place to sample stalwarts of the indigenous cuisine in dishes such asgrilled udderor classic trippa alla fiorentina, or tripe stewed in a tomato sauce topped with grated Parmesan. If offal’s not your thing, opt instead for the mouthwatering linguine with kale pesto. The great wine list offers someaffordable choices."

"La Ménagère La Ménagère is simultaneously a breakfast spot, a tapas and cocktail bar, a flower shop, a café, a housewares store, and a restaurant. The large space, once home to a famous Florentine home-goodsemporium, is now a ramble of beautiful rooms that serve many needs. The bright and airy bar area is the site for breakfast, lunch, aperitifs, and cocktails, while dinner can be eaten in several of the other charming rooms, including a narrow passage set with a long communal table. There's even a downstairs space where live music is played a few nights a week."

"Food Shopping at San Lorenzo Market Foodies (and those simply interested in local color and a good meal) should head to San Lorenzo and itscovered Mercato Centrale. Florence’s main market for edibles is housed in a 19th-century glass-and-iron building. On the groundfloor, delis, stands, and butcher counters sella fantastic array of local fruit and vegetables, cheeses, dried porcini mushrooms, baked goods, balsamic vinegars, and olive oils plus fresh fish, poultry, andmeat. Upstairs,a modernfood hall has opened: Stalls sell prepared foods and meals for happy and immediate consumptionat a central seating area."

"Look for the Birdcage to Experience Culinary Excellence If you weren't sure what you were looking for, you might miss Marco Stabile's Ora d'Aria restaurant on Via dei Georgofili. The hint of a large birdcage peeking through a tall window in an expansive and otherwise-unadorned wall is all that alerts you to the presence of greatness. White Saarinen tulip chairs are the next thing you see once you've decided to explore past the birdcage, and while the dining rooms, both upstairs and down, are not elaborate, they are perfectly suited to let Chef Stabile's food be the true showpiece. Though his cuisine is not traditionally Tuscan, and nor are all of his ingredients, Stabile's culinary creations are a delight, finally winning over the hearts of food-savvy Florence residents and every visitor who learns that a meal at Ora d'Aria is a must when in the Tuscan capital. If you're looking to save a little while still experiencing excellence, Ora d'Aria is also open for lunch."

"For asmall, cozy space, Osteria delle Belle Donne serves a very large bistecca fiorentina . This tiny restaurant, with stone walls and warm wood accents, is tucked on a narrow street between the Duomo and the train station. Beyond giant cuts of steak, other tasty highlights of Florentine cuisine are served here: fettuccine with wild-boar ragù, white beans, and seafood dishes. In the cooler months, traditional ribollita (a tomato-based vegetable stew thickened with bread) and budino marrone (chestnut pudding) appear on the menu. The wine list is Tuscan, too, so it's easy to find pairings for the rustic meals."

"A Royal Café Situated on the ground floor of the Palazzina Reale, adjacent to the Florence train station, this café makes it easyto grab a coffee before you hop on your train. The bar—in a long, elegant room with sky-high ceilings and modern fixtures—is flooded with light and retains many of the original architectural details of the palace that once served as the Florentine home of the Italian royal family. The train station itself, with its modernist lines (and great typography on signage), warrants a little tour before departure time."

"Dinner with the Best Views in Florence The rooftop restaurant of the Westin Excelsior hotel wins top prize for being the most panoramic spot for a meal in Florence ; floor-to-ceiling, wraparound windowspermit360-degree views over the entire city andthe hills beyond. Chef Matteo Lorenzini’s superb food lives up to the magnificent setting—so againstthe romantic backdrop of Brunelleschi’sDuomo and the thousand twinkling lights of the city, you can feast on seared scallops with chestnuts and lime, spaghetti with clams and crab cream, and Barbary duck."

"Trattoria i'Raddi, a classic Tuscan trattoria in the Santo Spirito neighborhood, is run by the Outran family. (A few family members are locally famous for playing calcio storico , a historic and brutal sport that seems like a mix of soccer andMMA fighting.) Come here to eat pappa al pomodoro (Tuscan bread-and-tomato stew), pici all’aglione (pasta with garlicky red sauce) , and peposa . Peposa is a slow-cooked, peppery beef stew, almost aTuscan version ofchili; according to legend, it was invented by Brunelleschi. The food here is affordableand theprix fixelunch specials are an even better value."

"A reservation is an absolute necessity at this very traditional and very popular Florentine trattoria. The white-tiled walls are hung with photographs and prints; hard wooden benches and tables run alongtheperimeter, and more tables are squeezed into the center. The menu is decidedly Tuscan with highlights like finocchiona (a fennel-flecked salami), slow-cooked beans, tortino di carciofi (artichoke in swirl of whipped eggs), and butter chicken, which is servedsizzling in the pan. Save room for the house dessert: heaped layers of cream and meringue surrounded by tiny wild strawberries."

"A Florentine Must A lampredotto sandwich from one of Florence's foodcarts is alocal-favorite experience you shouldn't miss. The crusty roll is stuffed withchopped beef stomach, dressedwith fresh salsa verde and pepper sauce, then dipped into the vat of broth. There are a few tripe stands scattered throughout the city and the Trippaio di San Frediano is a solid choice. You can find itacross the river inthe Oltrarno neighborhood. Next to the kiosk, several tables and stools provide excellent people-watching as youenjoy your lunch ( lampredotto is pretty much a lunchtime-only offering) with a plastic cup of wine."

"Le Volpi e l'Uva Reserve an outside table at this popular enoteca , located on a quiet piazza around the corner from the crowded Ponte Vecchio. You can order a predinner snack or, better still, cobble together a full meal from the selection of crostini with delicious toppings like truffle sausage and melted cheese or spicy 'nduja sausage. Other menu highlights include the antipasti platters of cheese and mixed cured meats. The staff can help you choose from the wine list, which focuses on small producers. (If you want to expand your wine expertise, guided tastings are also available here.)"

"When the sun sets, Piazza Santo Spirito wakes up and the large square fills with college students and young professionals. Volume is where they gather for strong cocktails and live music. Locatedinthe former workshopof Alfonso Bini, a woodworker who specialized in carved hat forms and later more-creative pieces, the space retains the warm vibeof the local craft studios. Small tables and chairsare set up alongsideshelves crowded with books, tools, and art. Seatingoutside affordsa view of the after-dark action on the piazza as well asthe striking Santo Spirito church."

"Creamy gelato goodness is scooped from covered silver containers in this shop on the Piazza Passera. Scan the hand-lettered labels to see what is on offer—the kitchen behind the shop makes everything with the freshest seasonal ingredients. Try Fior di Latte alla Menta, the Italian version of mint chip ice cream, orany of the sorbets, which have a bright, pure fruit flavor. Carry your cone to a bench on the piazza and savor it as you people-watch."

"Hot Chocolate with a View The terrace outsidethis historic café boastsone of the best views in town, encompassing an almost unimaginable collection of architectural highlights and public art from the Renaissance. Linger overyour coffee or a cup of hot chocolate as yougaze upon the Palazzo Vecchio, as well as a copy of Michelangelo’s David , the Fountain of Neptune, and the remarkable assembly of classical sculptures inside the Loggia dei Lanzi. It does cost more to sit outside than to stand at polished wooden bar inside, but this splurge is highly recommended. (The original owners were the official chocolatiers tothe royal family of Savoy; you can take home a pieceof that history in a beautifully wrapped box of chocolates or a jar of chocolate-hazelnut spread.)"

"This family-run bakery has been making cantucci ( what you might know as biscotti) for decades. The clan's patriarch, Roberto, mixes and rolls everything by hand in the back, using a recipe that he knows by heart—ask, and hewill happilyshow you the original recipe, now splattered with egg whites and cocoa. Roberto's delicate cantucci are far from the tooth-cracking kind sold at manyplaces. If you are really lucky, a fresh batch of the dark-chocolate-and-pistachio variety may have just been pulled out of the oven when you arrive."

"Prosecco and Truffles The recipe for the delicious, tiny truffle-cream sandwiches at atmospheric old Procacci is a guarded secret but, oh boy, are they good, especially when accompanied by a glass of prosecco. Smart Florentine ladies-who-shop flock here fora pit stop between purchases, but it's also popular for an early-evening aperitivo . Procacci is additionally one of the few places tobuy just-harvested truffles in Florence : look out for them in Novemberand December. Heap truffle shavingsover fresh, buttered taglierini pasta or a simple scrambled egg—after only one bite, you'll understand the attraction to these precious, musty-smelling delicacies."