The Best Restaurants in Sydney

@afar
 on 2022.02.03
Multiple locations
18 Places
@afar
While a dinner out in Sydney can often induce sticker shock, you get what you pay for—meaning fantastic meat, seafood, and produce prepared with a playful Australian spirit. Credit: Collected by Serena Renner, AFAR Contributor

130 Argyle St

Bar · The Rocks

"Quay Restaurant After 30 years at the forefront of Sydney 's fine-dining scene, Quay Restaurant underwent a multi-million-dollar renovation and reopened in 2018. The restaurant swapped white linens for Tasmanian spotted-gum wood tabletops and exchanged the previous purple-and-gold palette for blues, grays, and browns that better reflect Quay's harborfront location facing the Sydney Opera House. Executive chef Peter Gilmore loosened up his menu, too, offering either six or 10 inventive courses such as the Oyster Intervention—a crumble of oyster cream, crushed fried dehydrated oysters, chicken skin, tapioca, and caviar served in a ceramic oyster shell—creating a dish that’s all bivalve flavor without the slippery texture. Fans of the old Snow Egg dessert will be won over by White Coral: a multitextured masterpiece of aerated ganache, coconut cream, and ice cream."

Photo by Nikki To / Quay Restaurant

Rockpool Bar & Grill

Bar & grill · Sydney

"The most stunning dining room in celebrity chef Neil Perry’s restaurant empire has got to be Rockpool Bar & Grill in Sydney. Seated amid soaring green marble columns and Art Deco windows in a space designed by Emil Sodersten, diners can choose between the finest steaks, seafood, cocktails, and wines—more than 3,000 of them—that Australia has to offer. Dry-aged beef and sustainable fish are simple yet succulent, cooked over an open flame or in the wood-fired rotisserie. Start with the signature Four Raw Tastes of the Sea before savoring the Wagyu or Cape Grim steak, or opt for classy appetizers and cocktails in the candlelit bar, adorned with 2,682 hanging Riedel riesling glasses."

Photo by David Griffen

Saint Peter

Seafood restaurant · Paddington

"In a spare sandstone space in Paddington, Saint Peter puts all the emphasis on the seafood. Whether chef Josh Niland is working with fillets of snapper, Petit Clair de Lune oysters, whole urchin, or tiny herring, he appliesthe same care and precision, cooking his specimen to perfection every time. Many ofhis plates are like works of art: rounds of radish are layered atop rillettes of ocean trout like scales, a school of anchovies appears to swim through olive oil. There are also plenty of surprises along the way, from fish offal to sides of crispy scales. A black dot on the plate is both a reference to the marking on a john dory and a suggestion for where to start eating."

Photo by Nikki To

The Lord Nelson Brewery Hotel

Pub · Millers Point

"One ofSydney’s oldest “hotels” (watering holes with rooms), this Rocks favorite was built out of convict-quarried sandstone in the 1830s and ’40s. The Lord Nelson added a brewery in 1987 and now produces English-style beers, including the popular Three Sheets Pale Ale, on site. Sample one of the house brews with such pub fare as fish and chips or beef pie with mushy peas, surrounded by brew tanks and colonial memorabilia, or head to the upstairs restaurant for seared scallops, thyme-seasoned osso buco, and market fish, paired with all-star Australian wines. The place is still a hotel, too, offering modest accommodations just steps from the Sydney Harbour Bridge."

Photo courtesy of The Lord Nelson Brewery Hotel

Tramsheds

Shopping Centre · Forest Lodge

"Housed in the revitalized Rozelle Tramway Depot, Tramsheds has fast become one of the city’s most exciting culinary destinations, thanks to new concepts from some of Sydney’s favorite chefs.Bodega 1904 (from the team behind Bodega and Porteño) offers Latin-inspired tapas paired with Australian, Spanish, and Argentine wines, while Butcher and the Farmer serves house-made delicacies to diners, some of whom are seated inside a restoredSydneytram. Garcon does coffee (from owner Ed Cutcliffe’s Little Marionette beans) as well as cocktails and holds events like coffee cuppings and silent movie nights. Other standouts include Flour Eggs Water, Osaka Trading Co, Belles Hot Chicken, and yet another Gelato Messina. If that’s not enough, Artisan Lanehosts cooking classes, events, and pop-up producers."

Photo by George Hong, courtesy Osaka Trading Co.

Sean's

Australian restaurant · Bondi Beach

"A North Bondi Beach institution since 1993, Sean’s Panaroma is known for unpretentious yet delicious fare, served in a homey dining roomalongside fresh-cut flowers and views of Australia’s most famous beach. The simple chalkboard menu of entrées, mains, and desserts changes weekly—sometimes daily—based on what’s growing locally and at owner Sean Moran’s farm in the Blue Mountains (which also hosts stays). The waitstaff is tried and true, with a deep knowledge of Sean’s organic ingredients and wines. On your next visit, you might be treated to burrata-stuffed squash blossoms, a comforting arrangement of steaming mussels and perfectly seared tuna, Sean’s signature free-range herb “chook”(chicken), and a biodynamic red wine from New Zealand."

Photo by Jan-Peter Westermann / age fotostock

bills

Restaurant · Bondi Beach

"Chef Bill Granger started his first restaurant in Darlinghurst at age 24. Since then, his sunny Aussie eatery (most famous for its creamy scrambled eggs, ricotta hotcakes, and crunchy corn fritters) has spread to Surry Hills as well as Honolulu, Seoul, London, and four locations in Japan. The newest Australian outpost of Bills in Bondi Beach is bright and communal, spilling out on to one of the area’s most lively streets. Arrive early to avoid the long queue for weekend brunch, and sample everything from house-cured gravlax to the fried rice bowl with kimchi. Dinner (at the Bondi and Surry Hills locations only) is a more intimate, candle-lit affair, with interesting Aussie-Asian plates like tea-smoked trout salad, fish curry, spicy pork belly, and Japanese-style steak."

Photo by Anson Smart

Three Blue Ducks

Permanently Closed

"Three Blue Ducks draws a queue of Bronte beachgoers every weekend for its famous orange yogurt pancakes and scrambled eggs with black sausage. Besides the friendly staff, graffiti-meets-indie-music vibe(especially cool at dinner), and the crew of good-looking surfer mates who own the place, Three Blue Ducks is beloved for its honest, sustainable approach to food and drink. The tea, Single Origin Roasters coffee, and eggs are organic; the sourdough comes from Iggy’s a few doors down; and the seafood is sustainably caught or bycatch. Produce is as local as possible, too—some of it even grown in the restaurant’s back garden, which features fruit trees, herbs, and chickens. In 2016, a massive new location opened in Rosebery, not far from Sydney Airport."

Photo by Nikki To

Gigi Pizzeria

Pizza restaurant · Newtown

"After nearly 10 years of serving some of the best wood-fired pizzas inSydney, Gigi in Newtown did the unthinkable—it went vegan. Some customerspanicked but the restaurant continued to thrive anyway, adding momentum to the city’s growing vegan food frenzy. One of only a handful of Sydney pizzerias to attain a prestigious accreditation from the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (AVPN), Gigi makes a mean Marinara Tradizionale, with San Marzano tomatoes, garlic, and fresh oregano. Other pies feature olive tapenade, a pumpkin cream base, or nut cheeses so good you don’t miss the dairy. Also worth trying are the desserts, includingthe play ona traditional Neapolitan ricotta cake with cashew cream and walnuts, and the tiramisu with handmade ladyfingers and vegan Marsala cream."

Photo by Jessica Matino

Porteño

Argentinian restaurant · Surry Hills

"The Argentine restaurant that tookSydneyby storm in 2010—and even rose from the ashes of a fire that originated in its charcoal grill—finally outgrew its Cleveland Street Surry Hills digs and reopened on Holt Street in late 2016. The old parilla and asado fire pits were transplanted to the new location, this time positioned behind the counter of the open kitchen, and the rockabilly vibe lives on, albeit in a bright, plant-filled, parquet-floored space decorated with vintage sports and movie posters. Old menu favorites like the grilled Wagyu skirt steak and deep-friedBrusselssprouts can now be paired with a seafood cocktail, or wood-fired pumpkin tamales smothered in mole. End with the flan or melon ice cream served in the rind."

Photo courtesy of Porteño

Claire's Kitchen at le Salon

French restaurant · Surry Hills

"Slide into a sexy booth or black-velvet armchair at this award-winning French restaurant on happening Oxford Street and admire the grand chandeliers, antique flower pots, oversized clock display, and fabulous French staff. Founded by the famous French drag queen and chef Claire de Lune, who also started Sydney’s acclaimed El’Circo drag show, Claire’s Kitchen is a gathering place for theatre stars, drag pioneers, politicians, and celebrities. The food is traditional-with-a-twist (tartare, confit, soufflé, parfait), the wines are all French, and the service is friendly and professional. The moody mezzanine is where the fun really happens, especially during Wednesday night cabaret dinner shows, so head there for a seat, and be sure to save room for the dessert trolley. The restaurant also holds special events and cooking classes throughout the year."

Photo by age fotostock

1/28 Macleay St

Elizabeth Bay

"Long a supporter of organic, fair-trade, and biodynamic food, star Aussie chef Kylie Kwong even took her former restaurant on Crown Street carbon-neutral in 2007. She’s also a pioneer of native Australian ingredients and is responsible for introducinglocalsand visitors alike to everything from spinach-esque warrigal to live green ants. Now based in Potts Point, Kylie’s beloved Billy Kwong restaurantserves the same inventive Cantonese-Australian fare (don’t miss the citrus duck), but with some new additions. Try the saltbush cakes, which are like deep-fried doughnuts filled with Australian wilderness, or the wallaby—whether as slide-off-the-bone braised tail or baked in a bun and served with Davidson’s plum relish.Finish with the ginger-and-anise-spiced panna cotta or seasonal sorbet for a sweet end to your meal."

Photo by Penny Lane, courtesy of Billy Kwong

Ester Restaurant

Australian restaurant · Chippendale

"Ester Since bursting on to the scene in 2013, this Chippendale hotspot has multiplied its loyal fans along with its awards—chef Mat Lindsay was even named Australian Gourmet Traveller ’s 2018 Chef of the Year. Surrounded by stucco archways and strung with pendant lights, the dining room provides a subtle backdrop to dishes that are rustic yet refreshing. The wood-fired oven is put to good use, sometimes in surprising ways, like for charring cauliflower or lightly roasting rock oysters to warm, gooey perfection. There are also beautifully baked meats and breads, and a baby blood sausage “sanga” for those craving comfort food. For dessert, order the burnt pavlova, a classic meringue that takes a trip through the flames before being dusted in elderflowers."

Photo courtesy of Ester

Long Chim Sydney

Permanently Closed

"Long Chim What he lacks in Thai heritage, Australian chef David Thompson has made up for with decades of Thai travel, research, and reverence. At his restaurant Long Chim—a shadowy bunker decorated in disco balls and animal-themed paintings byBangkok-based artist Sath—the menu is split between familiar noodle, curry, and meat dishes and such experiments as sour orange ling fish curry. What sets Thompson’s food apart is the ingredients (he imports pad Thai noodles raw from the town of Chanthaburi and makes the fish sauce himself) and the spice—at least a Scoville level above what most Westerners mistake for Thai food. Luckily, there are delicious cocktails, based on the Thai food philosophy of mixing sour, salty, sweet, and (more) spice, to help temper the heat."

Photo by Nikki To

10 William St

Italian restaurant · Paddington

"This hole-in-the-wall wine bar in Paddington pours experimental reds, whites, rosés, sparklings, and skin-contact orange varietals and also cooks some of the most inventive cuisine in the neighborhood. If the wine list overwhelms you—there are more than 250 choices, mostly from Italy but also from France , Australia , and beyond—the friendly staff will be happy to help. Then, scan the right side of the chalkboard menu for the most enticing pairings, from starters like the fluffy, seedy pretzel accompanied by whipped bottarga (salted and cured fish roe) and kingfish with Spanish melon to seasonal handmade pastas such as a tagliatelle tangled in nettles, saffron, zucchini, and chevre. Whatever you decide, save room for the light but boozy tiramisu."

Photo courtesy of 10 William Street

House Bar

Bar · Barangaroo

"This architectural wonder perched on the Barangaroo waterfront looks like a stack of bowls overflowing with herbs. The interior of the three-level building—owned by prominent restaurateur and chef Matt Moran—is more fancy cruise ship meets modern bistro. The flagship restaurant, Bea, is where ex-Noma chef Cory Campbell experiments with native Australian ingredients and zero-waste principles. Its multicultural menu might feature steak tartare with mountain pepper, coral trout dressed in lobster reduction (made with leftover crustaceans), or bread pudding featuring sourdough miche that would have otherwise been tossed. The building also features the best place to take in the sunset or harbor lights: Smoke, the rooftop bar.The setting, the smoky martini, and sea urchin toastie are just three reasons the bar was named Time Out ’s Best New Bar of 2018."

Photo by Matt Moran / Barangaroo House

A1 Canteen

Permanently Closed

"The second Chippendale restaurant opened by rising-star chef Clayton Wells is the more-down-to-earth offspring of its sophisticated mother, Automata, down Kensington Street. The light-filled space fills with everyone from tattooed locals to businessmen in button-downs plus off-duty chefs curious to know the latest trick up Wells’ sleeve. One of his well-known talents is making even the simplest dishes exciting, whether it’s a plate of silky scrambled eggs dusted in curry powder or a classic muffuletta sandwich, a toasted loaf stuffed with a colorful cross section of Italian cold cuts, olives, and fermented veggies that takes two days to construct. Dinner is a little more elegant like Automata but still creative. Who pickles almonds and fries parsley for toppings? Clayton Wells does, at his Aussie café of the future."

Photo by Nikki To / A1 Canteen

Golden Century Seafood Restaurant

Seafood restaurant · Haymarket

"Golden Century Seafood This two-level Cantonese palace—connected by an escalator—is lined with tanks of live fish, crustaceans, and bivalves, which the staff will stir-fry, steam, salt-and-pepper, and douse in XO sauce to your heart's delight. There are many reasons the Chinatown establishment is beloved among in-the-know locals and hospitality veterans, and they extend from the warm, welcoming service all the way through the exquisite live abalone sashimi, mud crab hot pot, and private reserve range of wines. For a Chinese food adventure, arrive late (this place is open until 4 a.m.) and order straight from the live tanks. At least, that’s what the rock stars, politicians, and CBD chefs just getting off work do."

Photo by age fotostock