Hiiragiya

"Established in 1818, this heritage Kyoto ryokan has been run like a sacred temple by six generations of the Nishimura family. Consider it a sanctuary where you can fully immerse yourself in the traditional Japanese inn experience—think low-slung lacquer tables, sliding fusuma doors, multi-course kaiseki meals, and pristine white shoji screens. Watch Japanese white-eye birds flit through the private camelia garden; bundle up in your yukata to dine in-room on abalone with miso egg yolk sauce and sea urchin chawanmushi (a savory egg custard) served on Kiyomizu ceramics; and drink a nightcap of sake before sinking into the freshly laid tatami mat in one of property’s 28 rooms." - Keith Flanagan, Sanjay Surana, Jennifer Flowers, Adam H. Graham

"A historic property, Hiiragiya has hosted many a notable writer, artist, celebrity, and imperial family member since its opening in 1818. Operated by the same family for six generations, the ryokan is steeped in centuries-old tradition, etiquette, and service, with the aim of making guests feel at home during their stay. Rooms are spread across two buildings—the original with its classic style, and the newer, sleeker wing, where the color palette is a bit brighter and the windows and doors are more modern. Both feature updated amenities, however, including flat-screen TVs, minibars, and free Wi-Fi. Among the hotel’s other highlights are the kaiseki-style meals, during which kimono-clad guests enjoy course after beautiful course at low tables. Breakfasts and dinners are both included in your stay, and feature seasonal bites served in locally made lacquerware bowls and boxes."

"Why did this hotel catch your attention? What's the vibe?Discovering this ancient ryokan is part of the fun. The namesake wild holly protruding from the eaves lends a certain natural element to the environment. Creaky floors, cypress tubs with hot steam water, and tatami mats heighten the senses at each turn. You feel incredibly special every minute you are here. What's the backstory?It's run by the sixth generation of the Nishimura family. Charlie Chaplin and Liz Taylor both stayed here in the past, as well as several famous Japanese writers and poets—and even the former emperor of Japan and his family. Tell us all about the accommodations. Any tips on what to book?I spent one night in the modern wing and one in the old wing, and both were comfortable. This is the place to hole up and read a book on a rainy night; Kyoto's temples can wait. Take in the solitude here to really get the essence of it. Drinking and dining—what are we looking at?Slip into your robe and hunker down on your tatami for an in-room kaiseki meal of simmered razor clams, billowy yuba dumplings, tender bamboo shoots, and sea urchin chawanmushi served on handmade Kiyomizu ceramics. The epic Japanese breakfast is a theatrical ode to the season arriving in gift-like bowls, boxes, and covered lacquerware dishes. The western breakfast is no B-side: perfect boiled eggs, strawberry preserves, and white sandwich bread—so fluffy you could use it for a pillow—comes with its own toaster. Meals are for guests only. And the service?It totally changed my understanding of hotel service. Extremely warm. Check-in was flawless and everything about my two-night stay was seamless. Extremely humble and caring staff went out of their way to help me with the simplest of tasks. What type of travelers will you find here?I didn't see or hear any other guests! That's part of the allure. It's deeply private, and cloister-like. What about the neighborhood? Does the hotel fit in, make itself part of the scene?It's on a quiet back street and just one street away from a main thoroughfare, but you would never know. It's so quiet, I could hear a white eye warbler tweeting in my private moss garden. This is an intimate Kyoto experience that the big chains cannot offer. Is there anything you'd change?No. Not one thing. Any other hotel features worth noting?In-room dining is a must. Bottom line: Worth it? Why?Yes. It will give you a sense of how deep Japanese service can go, which is extremely uplifting and hopeful. You feel very loved and respected after a stay here, which is impossible to monetize." - Adam H. Graham