Bourdain ate: panelli (fritter made from chickpeas), caponata (sweet and sour eggplant), spaghetti al nero di seppia (spaghetti in cuttlefish ink), casarecce al pescespada (pasta with swordfish, eggplant, and tomatoes) Lunch date: Mary Taylor Simeti, food writer and author of On Persephone’s Island: a Sicilian Journal