Bourdain ate: braised lamb shank with rice pilaf (“This is what my soul needed”), vegetable manti. Lunch date: Serj Tankian, lead singer of the hard-rock band System of a Down.

Seasonal produce fresh food market. Tony's hosts shop for ingredients to make a dish called ghapama.

Somewhere in the wilderness of Nagorno-Karabakh (Artsakh), near Jdrduz Canyon in Shushi Bourdain ate: jingalov hats (“lavash bread stuffed with greens and onions before being toasted atop a cast-iron sheet”), Armenian barbecue covered in fennel and fresh herbs (“meat on a stick, which, let’s face it, is always good”). Lunch dates: Tigran Grigoryan, a war veteran and aspiring politician; Tatul Hakobyan, a journalist; Saro Saryan, an Armenian born in Azerbaijan who fled during the war.

Bourdain had: apricot vodka, trout wrapped and baked in lavash (“this is not light cooking”). Lunch dates: Serj Tankian, Marie Lou and Pegor Papazian, educators and founders of the progressive TUMO Center for Creative Technologies.

Bourdain had: a couple pints of beer. Beer dates: Tech journalist Artur Papayan, developer Harut Martirosyan, and cybersecurity consultant Ruben Muradyan.

Tony had a meal with some locals: oxtail soup; stewed liver and heart with tomato, onions, and fresh herbs; sheep’s head.

Tony had a meal of khash (stock flavored by roasted-beef bones) with lavash.

Milena’s home restaurant Bourdain ate: khash (stock flavored by roasted-beef bones) with lavash. Lunch dates: Serj Tankian’s longtime manager and friend George Tonikian, Milena, restauranteur Sam Hovhannisyan, journalistArman Suleymanyan, and their friends Inna Mkrtchyan, Samvel Hovhannisyan, Samvel Machanyan, Razmik Arzooian, Narek Aghababyan, and Anahit Chitchyan.