Ethiopian Tradition for the Vegan-Curious, at Ras Plant Based | The New Yorker

"Opened in Crown Heights in March by Romeo Regalli and his wife, Milka, Ras Plant Based reflects a dynamic, adaptable ethos rooted in family tradition: many recipes were passed down through generations, including some from Romeo’s grandmother, a passionate home cook who died last year in Ethiopia at the age of 104. Mama’s Tofu—traced back only as far as May when Romeo’s mother texted a photo from Addis Ababa and mailed him a homemade spice mix—captures that blend of inheritance and invention. The couple, both born in Ethiopia and who met working at Milka’s mother’s restaurant Awash, designed a vegan menu that honors fasting dishes and reimagines meat preparations with substitutes like crumbled pea protein. Even after a pandemic-forced shift to takeout and reduced hours, the breezy al-fresco vibe they prepared with colorful murals and patio-style furniture still comes through, though a playful brunch menu remains on hold and outdoor seating is limited. I found the flaky sambusas (lentil or cabbage, onion, and bell pepper) irresistible—especially dipped in Ras’s glossy-red awaze, which releases a balanced, slow-building heat—and the fitfit combines house-made injera (porous, slightly sticky, sour fermented teff flatbread) with tomato, onion, jalapeño, and a puckery lime vinaigrette. A vegan sampler arrives with injera cigars for scooping and showcases fasting favorites like missir (long-simmered red lentils layered with the secret spice mix) and fasolia (silky string beans and carrots), while two iterations of tibs replace beef with seitan (satisfying, almost pork-belly-like texture) and cremini mushrooms (earthy, brightened with rosemary); both are excellent with more injera or turmeric-stained steamed rice. Dishes are roughly $5–$19, and overall I felt lucky to be welcomed into this family and their evolving takes on Ethiopian cooking." - Hannah Goldfield