"But only one of the newcomers truly stands apart. F&F Pizzeria (459 Court St., Brooklyn, $4-$6), which opened last month, in Carroll Gardens, is a collaboration between a duo known as the Franks (Castronovo and Falcinelli), of Frankies Spuntino, next door; Chad Robertson, of San Francisco’s Tartine Bakery; and Chris Bianco, of Pizzeria Bianco, in Phoenix. The shop is bright but bare bones. The menu is, for now, extremely streamlined. The classic cheese slice is flawless: crust of optimal thickness (just floppy enough to fold easily); scant dollops of fruity but not too sweet sauce, made with Bianco’s line of organic Rustic Crush canned tomatoes, grown in California; extra stretchy, non-artisanal shredded mozzarella that goes brown and crackly at the edges; fresh basil." - Hannah Goldfield
