An Opulent Korean Tasting Menu, at Jua | The New Yorker
"Entering Jua's dim, opulent interior in the Flatiron district, I immediately felt that this was not a typical Korean barbecue: high ceilings, polished concrete, a formidable vase of plum blossoms and a spiced firewood fragrance give it an après-ski–lodge-for-the-modern-aristocracy vibe, matched by a well-heeled, self-assured clientele. A partnership between chef Hoyoung Kim and Hand Hospitality, the restaurant follows the multicourse, less-is-more lineage of Danji, Atoboy, and Little Mad and the fine-dining tradition pioneered by Jung Sik Yim; Kim, who spent eight years as executive chef at Jungsik’s Tribeca branch, aims for “sumptuous seduction” and “a story with a narrative arc that at once stirs and satisfies.” Over a seven-course prix fixe ($130) on my visit, standout dishes included golden kaluga caviar piled atop kimbap with beef tartare, pickled yam, and kimchi; soy-cured yellowtail and jellyfish under a diaphanous slice of roasted beet; a jook enlivened by foie gras, smoked eel, and king-trumpet mushrooms that achieved a compelling harmony of texture and flavor; and a galbi, Korean barbecued short rib, served with Brussels sprouts, crispy lotus root, wood-ear mushroom, and persimmon. The desserts prompted mixed reactions—the hotteok, a crisped pancake bathed in black-sugar syrup and studded with candied nuts, was left mostly untouched by my neighbor for caloric reasons—while my favorite was a dessert of sweet-potato foam, tapioca pearls, and brown-butter ice cream that, though not particularly Korean, satisfied my hankering for something filling and indulgent. Overall, Jua feels like an exactingly metered poem: graceful and self-conscious, presenting Korean food with the lyrical elevation (and price) of a high-end prix-fixe experience." - Jiayang Fan
