"Forget the soot-colored tabletop grill, the monotonous assault of appetizers, the insistent trail of meaty smoke of a typical Korean barbecue restaurant—as soon as you enter Jua’s dim, opulent interior, it’s clear that this is not that sort of place. With its high ceilings, polished concrete, and formidable vase of plum blossoms, the restaurant, in the Flatiron district, resembles an après-ski lodge for the modern aristocracy. This effect is enhanced by the well-heeled clientele, whose air of regal self-assuredness evokes the character of Jua as much as its spiced firewood fragrance does." - Jiayang Fan
Photographs by Gabriel Zimmer for The New Yorker