"Contento, whose name is a Spanish cognate for 'content,' as in 'happy': the opening itself, long delayed by COVID and longer dreamed of by its co-founder Yannick Benjamin, an accomplished sommelier and restaurant veteran (Le Cirque, Jean-Georges); Benjamin’s thoughtfully curated, internationally sourced wine list, with a wide range of prices; a Peruvian-inspired menu from the chef Oscar Lorenzzi (a native of Lima who once ran the kitchen at the Waverly Inn), featuring such dishes as ceviche clásico and 'quinotto,' i.e. quinoa prepared like risotto—nutty, creamy, and brightly jewelled with fava beans and sweet peas." - Hannah Goldfield