Lord’s

"Last year, I grew so tired of beans that I did the unthinkable—cancelled my membership in the vaunted Rancho Gordo dried-bean club. The other evening at Lord’s, a new restaurant in Greenwich Village, a bite of butter beans revived my interest with a jolt. Simmered in mushroom stock, each bean, firm yet silky, delivered a big hit of umami, on which toppings—roasted mixed mushrooms including maitakes and shiitakes, olive-oil-toasted bread crumbs—tripled down. The dish did not rely on nor trumpet the presence of truffle but, rather, harnessed its flavor in the service of complexity. Though the restaurant is ostensibly meat-themed, with an emphasis on offal, the bowl contained not a trace of animal product." - Hannah Goldfield