"The weekend-only brunch menu includes a hot-honey-yuzu salad and a stunning soufflé pancake, soft enough to eat with a spoon, and a teishoku ($28) that suggests the student has become the master. One Sunday not long ago, a piece of miso-marinated, silky-fleshed roasted bluefish was served with a dollop of yuzu kosho (a desert-island condiment made from chilies fermented with yuzu zest and salt), a bowl of dashi poured over carrots, cabbage, and wood-ear mushrooms, short-grain rice topped with a poached egg, and the restaurant’s signature, spectacular almond miso soup." - Hannah Goldfield