"On a quiet block in Williamsburg I discovered and returned recently to Okonomi (150 Ainslie St.), where the breakfast teishoku (starts at $30) was as exquisite, balanced, and thrilling as I remembered: a rhombus of salt-baked amberjack with skin like hammered pewter; half-moons of roasted delicata squash with wispy bonito flakes; a floret of barely steamed broccoli rabe dolloped with shira-ae (miso-tofu purée); a square of slightly sweet, custardy tamago with caramelized edges; pickled cucumber and daikon; and a pile of spicy braised burdock flecked with sesame seeds, served with miso soup and mixed-grain rice, to which I added a slippery poached egg bathed in sweet soy. For a long time, Okonomi was basically the only place in town to get a traditional Japanese breakfast." - Hannah Goldfield