"The teishoku was as exquisite as ever, as balanced and nourishing as it was genuinely thrilling, an optimal combination for the first meal of the day. A rhombus of salt-baked amberjack, its skin like hammered pewter, shared a plate with a few half-moons of roasted delicata squash, wispy bonito flakes clinging to their sticky surface; a floret of barely steamed broccoli rabe, dolloped with shira-ae, or miso-tofu purée; a square of slightly sweet, custardy tamago with caramelized edges; pickled cucumber and daikon radish; and a pile of spicy braised burdock root flecked with sesame seeds. On the side was miso soup and mixed-grain rice, to which I added a slippery poached egg bathed in sweet soy sauce." - Hannah Goldfield