Lilia

Restaurant Review: Missy Robbins’s Lowest Key Pasta Paradiso | The New Yorker

"I find no better place to experience Robbins’s touch than at her chic Williamsburg restaurant, where an ever-changing menu encapsulates her philosophy of luxurious Italian simplicity and showcases her deep mastery of pasta—the play of a noodle’s form, the exact marriage of shape and sauce, and the coaxing of texture between toothsomeness and pliancy. It’s the clearest expression of everything she’s proved over years running electrifying pasta restaurants, but frustratingly impenetrable: in the eight years since it opened it has remained booked solid—you can’t get a table, I can’t get a table." - Helen Rosner