"Far from Honmura An’s hushed reverence, the atmosphere at Cocoron, a tidy hole in the wall on Nolita’s Kenmare Street, starts with its kooky, exuberant menu. The soba is presented customarily, on trays holding bamboo mats of noodles that were boiled to order and quickly chilled, bowls of cold dipping sauce or pots of hot broth, and accoutrements such as grated ginger or daikon." - Shauna Lyon