"When I end up at Misi, Robbins’s lower-key spot on the other end of Williamsburg, the pastas are terrific and the vegetable dishes zingy and bright, but I’m always put off by the room: glass-walled and ceramic-floored, its planes of gray and black feel hard-edged and sterile, which is entirely at odds with the emotional warmth of the food coming out of the kitchen." - Helen Rosner